Tiaew Nee Hur

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Phu Khao Khwai4 days on ridge-top grasslands, with cattle grazing by your tent

A hiker in red walks past cattle on the Phu Khao Khwai grasslands, with mist and Nam Ngum Dam behind
Duration
4 days 3 nights
Total distance
30–35 km
Difficulty
Hard
Shared cost
4,290 THB

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    Phu Khao Khwai is a protected area in Laos, not far from Vientiane. Its ridge is a wide open grassland where villagers' cattle and buffalo graze, looking down on Nam Ngum Dam and its hundreds of small islands.

    This is a serious 4-day trek: waterfalls, tropical forest and long steep climbs up to a night on the ridge, then down to a camp overlooking the dam before heading home. It is genuinely tiring and steep, but the scenery is worth every aching muscle.

    A green pyramid-shaped peak with hikers on the grassland A hiker running after a herd of cattle on the ridge grassland

    4 days on Phu Khao Khwai

    Tap a section to jump to that day

    Illustration of the 4-day route profile: day 1 is fairly flat, day 2 climbs steeply to the ridge, day 3 follows the ridge then descends to the dam-view camp, day 4 is a long steep descent to the pier Day 1 Day 2 · 13–14 kmDay 2 Day 3 Day 4 Ban Ong RienOng Rien Camp 1 Tad Sao VaCamp 1 Phu Pha Dai Camp 2 · RidgeCamp 2 Buddha shrine Camp 3 · Dam viewCamp 3 PierPier

    Illustrates how steep each day is; elevations are not to scale.

    Day 1

    A warm-up day, the easiest of the trip

    Take the boat from the resort to Ban Ong Rien, meet the local guide, sort your gear, then walk gently into the forest. The trail isn't steep.

    • About 100 m before camp there's a waterfall to rest at
    • The first camp, just before Tad Sao Va waterfall, is on bare rock: no tent stakes, but good for hammocks
    • If you want to pitch a tent, push on another 2–3 km to a dirt clearing, though it's a bit steep
    • Our team cooks dinner tonight
    A waterfall in dense forest before the first camp, with hikers by the pool
    The waterfall about 100 m before the first camp
    Day 2

    The toughest day of the trip

    The longest and steepest day. About 1 km from the first camp you reach Tad Sao Va waterfall, then keep going for 13–14 km in total: hot, sunny, steep and long. A sun umbrella helps a lot.

    • 2 natural water refill points, so bring a water filter
    • A long steep slope to the foot of the mountain, 1 km more uphill, then 2 km along the ridge to camp
    • Stop at the Phu Pha Dai summit on the way
    Twin falls of Tad Sao Va dropping from a high cliff, with trekkers on a wooden deck
    Tad Sao Va waterfall, about 1 km from the first camp
    Day 3

    Easy walking, million-dollar views

    Wake before dawn to watch the sea of mist from Phu Pha Dang, walk 2 km back along the ridge, 1 km more to the Buddha shrine, then a 3 km descent to camp 3.

    • This camp overlooks Nam Ngum Dam and its hundreds of islands, best when sunlight glints off the water
    • There's a washing spot about 1 km round trip away
    Tents on the ridge overlooking Nam Ngum Dam and its small islands under rain clouds
    Camp 3, looking down on Nam Ngum Dam
    Day 4

    Downhill until you wonder if it will ever end

    Pack up and it's all downhill, and very steep. Trekking poles save your knees.

    • There's a shop near the pier for a cold drink
    • Boat back to the resort, then the van to Bangkok
    A green grassy ridge sloping down into the forested valley
    The descent from the ridge into the forest valley

    Getting there

    Travel with our team's van, leaving the night before the trek

    1. Depart 8:30 pm, BTS Mo Chit parking lotPickups along the way are possible; tell us when you book
    2. Cross the border at Nong KhaiOriginal passport only
    3. Dansavanh Nam Ngum ResortPark the van and take a boat across the dam
    4. Ban Ong RienMeet the local guide, sort gear, wash up, then into the forest
    Trekkers filling in forms at the Thai immigration checkpoint Trekkers with backpacks on a boat across the dam A wooden house in the village before the forest

    Costs and what to bring

    4,290THB/person

    A cost-shared trip: actual costs are added up and split among the group. Pay a deposit when you book and the balance 15 days before departure.

    Passport required
    You need it to cross into Laos. No passport, no trip.

    Included

    • Round-trip van, Bangkok to Nam Ngum Dam
    • Local guide
    • Round-trip boat across the dam and village entry fee
    • 5 mealsDinner on day 1, lunch and dinner on days 2 and 3

    Extra or bring your own

    • Personal porter, 800 THB/dayCarries about 13 kg; 3,200 THB for the whole trip
    • Round-trip border fees, about 80 THB
    • 3 breakfastsBring instant noodles or other easy food
    • Water filter, sun umbrella, trekking poles, hammock or tent

    Photos from real trips

    FAQ

    How hard is it? Can beginners come?

    It's rated hard: 30–35 km in total, with 13–14 km on day 2 that is hot, steep and long, and a long steep descent on the last day. It suits people who have done overnight treks. If you're just starting, try one of our moderate trips first.

    Do I need a passport?

    Yes, everyone needs their original passport. We cross at the Nong Khai border; round-trip border fees are about 80 THB.

    Is there water on the trail?

    Day 2 has 2 natural refill points, so bring a water filter. The day 3 camp has a washing spot about 1 km round trip away.

    Can I hire a porter?

    Yes. A porter carries about 13 kg for 800 THB per day, 3,200 THB for the whole trip. Let our team know when you book.

    Where do we sleep?

    In tents or hammocks. The first night's camp is on bare rock where tent stakes won't go in, so hammocks are easier. On nights 2 and 3 you can pitch tents on the grass. No gear? Rent it from us when you book.

    Can I cancel?

    Cancel 15 or more days before departure for a 100% refund or credit toward a future trip. Within 15 days you cannot cancel, but someone else can go in your place.

    Group photo of two Phu Khao Khwai trips on the ridge

    Come walk the ridge

    Van seats are limited. Book and pick your own seat on our website.

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